Into the wild, Cendarawasih Bay

Our brief stop in Manokwari was extended as we made the most of the friendly town facilities restocking at the local market, sourcing fuel and getting some locally made Batik fabrics. In between awaiting the delivery of fuel we were accompanied by a steady stream of children who swam out to the boat on various flotation devices to visit. 

Worth mentioning, fuel can’t be purchased from the service station in jerry’s. Locals have devised an ingenious method of getting government subsidized fuel and making a buck by fitting their large 4x4swith an easy access tank taps so you can fill up at the servo for 4,500rp, cross the street and empty it into jerry’s which you can sell to the fisherman and us for anywhere up to 7,000rp depending on your bargaining skills and demand This often means a long wait for fuel as each vehicle is only allowed to fill up once per day.

 The afternoon whiteouts and cloudy skies did not stop us exploring once we reached Rumberpon where our Google Earth images came in handy for finding our way thru reef in the rain squalls. Cendarawasih Bay did not disappoint, with steep jungle clad mountains to our right and countless islets fringed with reef on our left, we found mangroves and deserted white beaches with the odd dugout parked in the trees. Finding water shallow enough to anchor in was the only challenge.

As always there are plans and then plans when sailing and as we stumbled upon a small islet group south of Rumberpon we couldn’t resist exploring. A recon reef snorkel was so surprisingly beautiful we were encouraged to dive the drop off. We also took time meeting the local farmer and exploring the surrounding beaches for climbable coconut trees.

We managed to squeeze in a small hike to the top of a nearby hill, giving great views of the surrounding area. Jean survived the first of our walks, but needless to say returned hot, sweaty and covered in dirt. We thought we had better break out Thyme’s fine Kentucky Bourbon to aid recovery.

Jean must be a magician, as along with the copious amount of boat goodies she carried from the Kentucky in the US for us in her super small bag, she also managed to squeeze in this personalized fifth of Kentucky Fine Bourbon Whiskey.

Continuing south deeper into the remote, Jean and myself explored beneath the water, finding all sorts of interesting fish, sharks and critters while Simon rested, recovering from yet another infected cut, this time with fevers! What are we going to do with him? The locals were so friendly but being this remote we were keen to remain cautious and created a fictitious male, swarmee (husband) of Jean called “George”. Unfortunately when locals visited, big strong George was resting so they couldn’t come aboard. Many ignored this and at times we had over 10 people on the boat at once, all very curious as they never have kapal layer (yachts) visit.

In Nusaneer we met a lovely man who climbed the coconut trees and returned with no less than 14 fresh green coconuts in exchange for a packet of Malboro 20s. He ended up spending the afternoon onboard before showing us the local waterfall and washing area… Jean and I were in hair washing heaven! I’ve included a photo of Simon trying to light a beach fire. As most of you are aware Simon is not renowned for his fire lighting skills. Needless to say he’s pretty handy with accelerants.

Sailing onto Palau Roon we dived a Zero Japanese aircraft wreck one afternoon. We got some great photos with Jean’s new toy – the GoPro underwater camera. She quite cleverly catches Simon giving the wreck a thorough once over, luckily there was nothing he could pry off by hand. I was more interested in the Crocodile Fish sitting in the wing crevice.

It was here we came across the lovely Cedrick and the Black Manta tour boat. Given we had jumped straight in and dived the wreck first with our hookah unit we were quite surprised when Cedrick approached, inviting us to visit, supplies and assistance if we needed anything. He was free with sharing info on the Whale Sharks and I as I write we are headed south ready to look below in pursuit of the big fish – fingers crossed!

Jungles of Gaya to bright lights of Labuan

After stopping for a few supplies, and all the luxuries of the Sutra Harbor marina (shhh, we sneaked in for a swim) we headed out to Gaya where despite the best attempts by the staff at the Police Beach resort to turn us away due to dangers in the jungle we managed to find the elusive & exclusive canopy walk.

We also found the start of the national parks walk which is what we were really looking for. Some of the wildlife was trickier to spot then others however we weren’t attacked by bearded pigs and green vipers which is what the resort management lead us to believe.

Our next stop saw Amanda kicking a sharp stick and by the time we got to Snake Island she was pretty well boat bound. The fishermen were asking for water which made a nice change from beer.

I did manage to convince A to take Sloop for a walk while Maria learnt the fine art of Oyster collection. Don’t step on the puffer fish.

After  a big 4 mile day we anchored off  Tiga where a survivor series was filmed and you can swim in the mud pools. With more than enough entertainment provided by the locals, there was little need for me to get covered in the sticky mud and walk 2.5km back through the steamy jungle!

At the north end of Labuan it’s possible to walk to the bird park and one of Labuan’s big attractions the chimney. I’m still mystified as to why it’s such a big hit as nobody knows what it was built for, by whom or when exactly? Maybe that’s it.

After some duty free shopping and more supplies we headed over the  Klais river in search of the rumored Proboscis Monkeys and hornbills.

Back on Palawan

With the wind dying we continued on our way west stopping at Caladagan Island we purchased octopus from a fisherman and snorkeled with shrimp fish amongst ther things. Although we have mastered the art of cleaning Octopus the gettingit tender still proves to be a challenge.

The Palawan coast is littered with uninhabited postcard Islandssurrounded by reef some of them tougher than our Octopus to negotiate.

With the wind completely gone now Amanda picked Maraguit Island as a spot to stop probably because of the abundant coconut supply that both her and Michelle are now adding to their rum. When in Rome…

To cool off we took the dingy over to the main land and up a river. Hoping for a waterfall we proceeded on foot once it became too shallow for the dingy.

Michelle’s Mum who thinks she’s on a cruise ship offered some advice before she left the U.S. “Stay with the group Michelle”. I’m guessing she’s not aware the group is 3.

We lucked out on the waterfall and settled for swimming at the dingy. Going against my number 1 rule – if it’s not f….. don’t fix it, I decided to improve the carburetor which ended in us rowing downstream to the main road where a young girl took us to a Vulcanizer (tyre repair shop). Here I borrowed her fathers compressor, solved the problem and we got back underway.

After dotting our way through Honda bay we reached Puerto Princesa for our Philippines outwards clearance.

Exploring Bohol & Siquijor

Wanting to explore the cave in Antequerra further we talked Trevor and his crew Wilson into an up river exploration trip with a local guide, which included the cave. Properly equipped with flashlights we headed up stream in the dark cave for around an hour before coming back. The cave system runs for miles and branches here and there but we could only go as far as time and the bats allowed.

Stopping at the old wooden bridge for lunch we finally reached the waterfall around 3pm with the following on trail slip stats – Amanda 3, Trevor and Wilson 2 and me 1.

With gas, fuel and groceries sorted we headed south to Siquijor. Our first anchorage was a small port that we got kicked out of (restricting the movement of ships) so we headed another 10 miles around in a stiff breeze and by chance anchored near an old wreck. The resident sea snakes spent quite a bit of time trying to climb aboard ignoring Amanda’s shoo shooing.

A local venture “Fortune Metals” was cutting the wreck up for scrap. They were only to happy to let us hang around and watch even offering us a breathing hose to hold in our teeth to extend our bottom time. It takes a bit of getting used to but is doable.

With only 20 miles between us and Daryl on ‘Matana’, the decision was made to duck over to Dumaguete for a visit before his departure to Aussie.

Catbalogan, Leyte and the return of the Swedes

Catbalogan, a city on the island of Samar was where we were to pick up our old crew Robin and Pontus. Amanda again attempted unsuccessfully to find more clothes that might fit. Nearby the local brigade was trying to put out a fire... A fire sale?

Pontus who for the last 3 months has resisted a haircut seriously gave it some thought, but decided that a 50 cent cut might not be his style. Robin was recruited for the task of cleaning pig intestine for a batch of Beef and Guinness sausages.

Bilaran is an island covered with steep hills, rice terraces and waterfalls. We went against the recommendation of our motorbike taxi driver to take a guide and headed out alone after receiving directions by way of a mud map (a map drawn in the mud by someone with no English). Our 10-minute walk turned into a 1.5 hour slide through muddy jungle. Yep we got lost.

We did get there eventually after finding some farmers who pointed us in the right direction.

Knowing the way back to town we decided to walk. Along the way a truck stopped, I guess to offer us a lift? Once we all jumped on they would have realized we wanted a ride if that’s not the reason they stopped!

Snake cave is our next destination.

A tough climb at Almagro

We awoke the next morning at Guinauayan Island to what sounded like something crashing into the side of the boat. Turns out it was the local fishermen 200m away throwing sticks of Dynamite into the water before ducking for cover. We had a rushed breakfast enduring the blasts and promptly headed of to Almagro.

Once anchored the Police commandeered a banka and came out to greet us and explain how safe their town was. We later visited their office and when making inquiries as to if the town had a restaurant they reluctantly replied “no but we can make you something.”

A trip around the bay by dingy turned up caves, bats, and crystal clear water with good snorkeling prospects.

Feeling the need for some exercise we headed to the police station the next morning to find out if we could climb Mt Oopow. The chief wanted to donate the time of 2 officers to go with us but as the Mayor was due to arrive and they were all in dress uniform he rounded up an unsuspecting local instead.

Typical of a Thyme trip our guide got a little lost, most of the track we made by slashing through the jungle and it rained… and rained. Did I mention the rain?

Our disappointment at not being able to reach the summit was intensified when it was revealed we had lost both our phones with water ingress… despite them being wrapped in plastic bags. Our plan was to head off the following morning but once I got up and saw the sun on the mountain I couldn’t resist the challenge of a second attempt at the summit – with a fresh guide. Amanda came for the walk to the end of the track if you could call it that and my new guide and I pressed on. The growth took hours to slash through but we made it with only 1 rain shower.

The view was worth the cuts, ant bite and drenching getting there. Amanda’s plan of an on track walk backfired when our latest guide took a short cut and yep, got lost. Luckily we backtracked and after an hour found where we were supposed to go. I think if it had rained at that point it would have all ended in tears, aye Amanda!

Three days later we reluctantly left Almagro - which had started out as an overnight anchorage. Out of the 34 islands we have visited to date this was a real highlight.
PS we were the first yacht to ever visit that town.

The Swedes Last Leg - to the Calamians

The Calamian Group was more about the swimming than the fishing with plenty of wrecks from the Second World War and coral gardens to explore.

Robin worked out that by rolling into a ball the fish would hang around close by. I had the opposite problem with the Piranha fish thinking my body hair was eatable.

Sadly, Coron was the drop off point for the Swedes after 40 days aboard, I know Sloop will miss Robins hat and his shoulder massages.



While in town Robin kindly located a Balut vendor. Balut is a duck egg that was firstly incubated for 23 days then stored in a hot steamy environment. Succumbing to peer pressure I joined his club by also eating one. Amanda also wanting to be in the club took the challenge.

With the boat refueled we headed over to the nearby salt water lakes for a look before heading north again.

Our new crew Marc and Renate from Germany had a bit of a bumpy ride with a strong easterly blowing but the anchorage was nice and walking up the hill gave us a good view of the area. Fingers crossed the wind drops off a bit tomorrow for our trip east.

From reefs to pirates - Lahad Datu

Our arrival at Semporna was planned in time for both dropping off Cristian and Mane and the rugby world cup final. I can’t say it was the most relaxing game of rugby I have ever watched, even Trevor who is not that interested was nervous.


With a win under our belt we headed back out to Bohey Dulang to have another crack at the mountain behind the national parks buildings.

The mountain was ours.

The national parks buildings house a lab where they are growing various clams for release in the area.

Being very impressed with the snorkeling at Richards reef we decided to head back over there the following day to show Gadfly’s crew the coral gardens. And the bird. (Simon made me do it!)

After dotting our way down Darvel Bay we now find ourselves in Lahad Datu. The Lonely Planet Guide talks about gun wielding pirates on the waters but it appears to be a lot safer the Semporna if you ask me.

With a couple of days up our sleeve before we head to Sandakan to pick up Peter (crew from Canada) we have come up with a rough route for the Philippines.