Ocean Rafting

When diving ahead of the boat to try and set up a float-less mooring (I was advised not to use a float as it would be lucky to live there a week before taking up alternative accommodation in some random fisherman’s boat), I also found an old raft and needing a better way of getting to the boat than swimming decided to refloat and repair it. The cunning plan was to tie drums to it and fill them with air from dive compressor.

After getting it to the house, removing the old drums, grinding off the crap, a spot of strengthen, a lick of paint and putting in some plastic drums (traded for the construction of a BBQ), wa-la! no more dog paddling around brown floaties and recycled disposable nappies.

Amanda in the mean time was hard at work flying to Goroka to sample local coffee in the sipping room and buy locally made handbags. To her horror it turns out one of these was made from a cute little fluffy possum called a Cuss Cuss. There was also the trips to Bougainville to see if that’s really where the Bogans came from. It’s possible. Probably she slipped in some accounting alone the way.

 Hard at work back in Madang I was left to my own devices volunteering at the fishing club to help put in mooring lines without floats and anywhere else that contained the word fishing.

With Amanda needing a work permit and me wanting a stamp in my passport advertising my official status as not "not permitted to work" we booked our tickets to NZ as the formalities have to be completed once you are outside the country. The plan was to meet Amanda in Port Moresby and carry on together however the plan all fell apart when the only stamp I got was "not permitted to leave" not that I could anyway, they took my passport. Apparently there was a mix up in the paperwork (customs fault) and according to the computer I had stayed to long. And so I now can't leave? Only in PNG. Anyway all was not lost; I got to go back to Madang to ensure Andrew was keeping up with his studies.

5 days later it was all sorted and I moved on my next project, the repair and repainting of a rental property in Nelson. It’s good to be home.

The paradisical Hermits

It was another calm and beautiful day that saw us sail (read motor) into the Hermits.

The fishing here was crazy - we were catching so much fish the freezer was full, the locals had stopped fishing and we discovered the dingy was too small for Hermit Island fish.

 With the weather remaining calm we headed to the south western rim of the atol to a place we called Bird Island. All eyes were underwater as we dived the outer edge of the reef. We saw turtles, spotted eagle rays, white tip, black tip and grey reef sharks, a huge array of reef and schooling fish as well as an abundance of critters. The water was so clear, at 30m you would think you were still in 10m.

When we weren't diving we were exploring brid island. Covered in Noddy's, Booby's and Frigates nesting. It was a bird lovers and photographers paradise - here are some of Simons shots.

Still hot on the trail of fish, our table was always full.

I guess all good things must come to an end and while waiting for some wind we've let time get away from us. It's Xmas in 3 days - if we were to leave now we could get to Madang by Xmas eve but we'll probably motor all the way. Do we want fish and lobster with tinnned veges for lunch? What to do...

Leaving Jayapura

Our departure from Jayapura was a little hectic. We were supplying the boat for an unknown time in a new country. The fact that the Jayapura supply ships were delayed or broken down did not help our cause. Fuel and gas was particularly challenging, the fuel being solved in the cover of darkness as the police assisted us in getting the fisherman to purchase jerry's and transport them to the boat... all for a small fee and a few beers.

 

In between running around Sloop was revelling in the re-supply and the local ladies led by english speaking Selfi were keeping us entertained.

Our new crew, 2 young Swedes, Johan and Anton joined us just in time for a haircut and to experience the gas supply issue . The final challenge on the list was achieved by a combination of begging, bribery and law breaking. We were almost pipped at the post when a local discovered the illegal bottle filling and threatened to pull the pin - a few sob stories later and we're stocked ready to go.

Our clearance into PNG in Vanimo was completed without a hitch and we were free to depart for the fabled Hermit Islands. We set sail on the 2 day passage with no wind but took advantage of the opportunity to clown around. Antons backflip turned out to be a flop... maybe safer to stick with fishing.

The sun is shining - off to Manokwari

The sun is shining in Manokwari… well at least metaphorically if not physically. Simon is getting stronger everyday although small jobs and physical activity still take it out of him. For example the generator which he pulled into a million bits searching for the fuel blockage, only to find the vent on the fuel cap was blocked. Also, while he still can’t climb the palms, he can at least now open the coconuts to keep up the daily supply I’ve become accustomed to. Jean, our new crew from the US is getting into the electrolyte properties of the coconut after scrubbing the bottom of the hull – nothing at all to do with the rum…

With the swell rolling in from the ENE, and the wind on the nose it made for a bit of a slow trip with a shortage of anchorage choices. One good score was the lovely calm anchorage and friendly town in Sansapor where we made it to town in perfect timing for the local weekly soccer match. We were met at the wharf by a million smiling children and a very kind local who became our guide for the afternoon.

 While the passage to Manokwari, and Jean’s first overnighter did include 30 hours motoring into the wind and current, the clear waters, whale, dolphins and huge Wahoo more than made up for it.

Our first stop in Manokwari couldn’t have been nicer, white sand beach, crystal clean water and chilled tunes from the shore welcomed us at the local weekend spot for family picnics. Before long we had many visitors swimming out to the boat – still a bit unsure of safety in Papua, the adults bobbed around in the water clinging to tyre tubes and water bottles for flotation while the curious children poked their grinning faces into every window they could, squealing with delight in between, “shhhh’s, Simon tedore” (Simon’s sleeping).

At our next stop, Mansinam Island we really knew we were in Papua. We followed a bougainvillea lined path and brightly coloured houses to tunes of the singing in church. Slowly the locals began to pass us, dressed in their Sunday best, beautiful Batik dresses and shirts with big betel nut grins.

After a stop in Manokwari town proper for supplies, we’re heading south into the famous Cendarawasih Bay where the underwater marine life is prolific and the whale sharks swim.

The Chilians in Raja Ampat

Before Scotty continued West on his travels, Simon had one more treat up his sickness sleeve for us. One morning, while eating breakfast outside I saw some bright blue gelly type liquid on the deck. Curious as to what it was, I asked Scotty if he had any ideas. Also curious by nature, he got down on all fours, dipped his index finger in it and took a sniff. It’s of quite an oily consistency he says, yes I agree bending down to get a better look. We put it down to one of lifes mysteries and carry on until shortly after Simon arises from his death bed with a blue stain on his foot. Further enquiries were made and it turns out that the medicine he is taking has turned his urine bright blue.  During the night while shivering and shaking and delirious with fever he must have missed and got the rail. Gross !!!

This is Simons humour in case you can't tell and being sick I've let him have his way - he's re-created it for your viewing pleasure!

Simon’s health was up and down like a yo-yo – dying one minute and feeling ok the next. After talking to our doc in Aus, we headed to the hospital for some tests, fearing the worst. It sounds terrible, but we were almost relieved to hear he had malaria – we could put a name to it, and this is something they treat everyday, being an endemic malaria region. We were anchored right next to the ferry terminal, only a short bus ride to the hospital.

Too late to let our friends Mane and Cristian from Chile know about Simon's health, they arrived and decided to stay aboard and see what happens. With drugs in hand, we headed a short way to an island where Si could take some R&R and we could explore. Sorry Scotty, after you jumped off we seemed to hit the mackerel sweet spot and Cristian was hauling them in – his first pelagic catch!

Cristian and Mane tried Scuba for the first time in the shallows of Palau Yum, before we headed back to Sorong for some more tests.

With Si still positive for P.Vivax malaria, we stocked up on a new course of drugs – supposedly to clear the parasite from blood and the liver stages and we headed back to Waigeo to explore the narrow channel between Palau Waigeo and Gam. We thought we might snorkel the channel so did a bit of a dinghy recon one afternoon – the current was so swift we struggled to get back to the boat.

The next day we braved the current and jumped in for a snorkeling joy ride past bommies and rocks covered with soft corals and sponges, critters, turtle and fish swimming in the depths and caves to explore.

This bay was a karst island fantasy with pinnacles, islets and narrow channels to weave in and out of. Secret bays could be accessed thru small holes in rocks and caves filled with bats abound. You could explore this area for months and still not see it all!

With Si’s health heading downhill despite the new drugs we decided to return to Sorong. Cristian and Mane jumped off and returned to Bali before heading for Chile. It was such a shame their visit co-incided with Simon being unwell – but we still managed to show them some of the beauty of Raja Ampat and even squeezed in some sailing, Cristian taking on role of skipper and Mane first mate. Unsure what to do next we returned to the hospital with Si where we decided to admit him for 3-4 days of treatment.

Just in case you have no idea where we are - that's us on the right hand side of the screen.

Wonderful Waigeo - Raja Ampat

Our stop at the equator involved more diving. This time some high adrenaline dives with swift currents and some big fish – we even managed to spot the Raja Ampat walking shark. Out of the marine park the boys couldn’t wait to get out the spear gun and catch some crays for dinner.

Instead of fireworks, our equator party included a call from Daryl on Metana advising that he had to administer CPR to Toni after she had suffered some kind of fit and could we get some assistance on the radio. Thru the trusty HF, we put out a PAN PAN and got NZ radio, who called Australia, who called Indonesia who sent out their Sea Air Rescue boat to assist. Nice to know someone is out there in emergencies.

Setting sail for Aus, we farewelled Metana and Gadfly for the last time and headed for a leisurely tour of Alyui Bay, sailing between a narrow karst cliff lined channel, diving with hundreds of solar powered nidibranchs at the White Arrow dive, visiting the local pearl farm, navigating through the mangroves to fresh water streams, collecting fresh oysters and checking out ancient rock art. We even squeezed in listening to the Sydney Swans win the grand final on the HF radio.

After a hot tip from the Pearl Farm and keen for some land adventures, we headed further into the bay for a walk up a mountain. We were surprised to find pitcher plants.

Unexpectedly, we've not seen a store now for about 2 weeks. Fresh veges were becoming a memory, lucky we like coleslaw and baking was becoming our favourite past time, homemade crumpets were a hit one morning. We were even resorting to desperate measure with the coconuts – taking from fallen trees!

With Simon suffering from the mystery illness again we made a push for Sorong.  At one point his fever reached 39.8 and he was delirious and shaking. Thank goodness Scotty was aboard, his calming influence was greatly appreciated – Simon spent 3 days in bed, arising only for entering or exiting anchorages or winching the tricky dinghy up before returning to his death bed. Simon awoke on day 4 with no idea as to where the boat was or how we got there! While you were sleeping, we saw no reason not to mix travel and nursing with exploring – Scotty and I dived in mangrove lined reefs, drift dived narrow channels with names like Citrus Ridge & Palau Yum where I spotted a huge sleeping Wobbygong, enjoyed bird watching and forest walking and visited a small island which resembled the south pacific more than Indonesia. Wish we could share the amazing diving but with no underwater camera – you’ll just have to come and see it yourself to believe it!

To the Bright Lights of Boracay

Leaving Coron behind we headed over to Tara Island catching a Tuna along the way. Sloop was pleased to be back into the quieter Islands where a run around was possible.

We found ourselves anchored off a deserted beach and hatched a plan to have a BBQ. Renarta marinated pork (Schaschlik from Russia with love) to have with baked potatoes and salad.

Looking back maybe we should have stayed another day, but unaware it was Friday the 13th we headed off for one of the worst trips in ages against the current and straight into the wind across to Mindoro. Finally after averaging 3.2 knots (5.7km) we reached a bay on Ambulong Island well after dark. A stripy tuna also had an unlucky day. Not game to enter the bay in the dark, which was full of seaweed farming and reef buoys we anchored out the front only to have security turn up on a jet ski with their guns. It turns out they only wanted to guide us in and show us around the Grace Island resort which was starting to take guests. The next day after our tour we had them out on the boat for a visit before we headed off to Masin Island.

With the weather now on the improve Masin Island was a great place to stop with loads of kids on the shore waiting for us. We took balloons over which was a great hit.

It’s a wonder the kids didn’t injure themselves running in the wind bare footed over lumps of coral to catch a balloon I let go. After seeing that we just handed them all 1 each.

After we got some coconuts and Marc threw some kids about we departed for the big smoke of Boracy to get more time on our visa.

Feeling left out, Marc joined the Balut club. Our unregistered vendor had to usher us off the beach into an ally way to avoid the police. A Philippine rocker dressed in doc martins, stockings and a kilt provided after dinner entertainment.

As well as us trying to convince a security guard to point his 9mm at Amanda. He even objected to holding Marcs water pistol.

Enough of the big smoke – let’s head for Tablas!

To El Nido - the scenic route

Once Anchored at Boayan Island fishing around the many rocks was high on our agenda with Robin landing a great Tuna and all of us getting loads of Barracuda from around what we called “Barracuda Point” These were gratefully received by a small group of people living in the bay. The making of Sushi rolls the next day in the rough conditions ended up being to hard for poor old Robin.

The remaining of the fish was shared with Tim and Barb of Rubicon Star at Teodore Point BBQ style.

From Teodore Point we headed to Liminangcong a small town where Robin again hooked up this time a Brassy Trevally later to be had as Cevice, (Lunch). The following day put us in the Bacquit Archipelago. Cathedral caves were the nearby anchorage attraction. Tim took Robin and I took Pontus for a fishing competition. Our team recorded 1 bite, 2 bottom hook ups and a net around the dingy prop in the dark. Tim’s team got nothing but was halfway through a bottle of rum by the time we got back. Who were the winners? The galley was also closed on Tim’s boat when we got home leaving him to cook his own dinner.

Robin also managed to climb into a cave after a few dips in the sea only to find bird shit mostly on his hands. It entertained us anyway.

Since the weather was on the improve, a trip around some of the outer Islands was decided on before heading to Coron Coron for new years eve. Small Lagoon was the first stop.

The mosquitos were fierce at Big Lagoon where Sweden’s TV program Robinson was filmed.

With the loss of only a pint of blood each we headed around to secret beach, a hole in a rock wall that you swim through to enter a small lagoon. Anchoring in 25 meters over rocks wasn’t the highlight of my day.

With New Years Eve fast approaching, our house clean to be done and maybe a nap to fit in we headed to Coron Coron our nights anchorage for the festivities.