Sailing around Phang Nga Bay

With Christmas fast approaching Trevor had to travel south to Ao Chalon to collect new crew and drop off existing ones. Us wanting to avoid the chaos for as long as possible were not planning to arrive in Nai Harn till the 24th. One of his crew was keen to stay on the water till the New Year so we put up our hand and offered to take her north with us. Our first stop was to be James Bond Island. Getting right into theme, we even bought the The Man With Golden Gun DVD only to find the high quality pirated copy got stuck half way through!



Ignoring all the domes dayers who said we would run aground (like that hasn’t happened before) we opted to go further north to a Muslim stilt village.


Here our missions were to find some paintings believed to be from the Neanderthal era, a hole through a rock and of course Internet. The Paintings were the easiest to find.

The Internet was a little more trouble some however Amanda did find some good clothes on the mission. And the hole through the rock was an 8-mile dingy ride into the mangrove river system. If there had not been fishermen along the way to continually point us in the right direction we would never had made it.

The place was full of friendly locals.

Having visited the tourist hot spots it was time to go in search of cleaner water. This meant leaving Phang Nga Bay and heading to Koh Racha Yai, south of Phuket. Here swimming was back on the menu.

Unfortunately so was walking. I did however get to make some new friends

The 24th had arrived so we put Miss V (identity not disclosed as she is very shy) on the wheel and we headed off to Nai Harn for Christmas.

The Long Walk.. final installment

We followed the bottom of the ridge, finding some aboriginal sites along the way. The amazing rock formations made for great exploring… after scaring out a big pig that is! When we made it to camp we were all dying to get our wet clothes off and soak our weary bodies in the stream. After some relaxing I found the energy to explore up the gully that forms the start of Waterfall Creek. There was huge boulders to climb, followed by shady swimming holes… over and over again.



The next day we powered our of camp, keen to hit the sandstone and make camp early. The heat of the day made us finally appreciate the clouds and rain of the previous days – man it was sticky! We made it to the sandstone in record time and had set up camp by our own private pool and spa on a sandy bank. This left plenty of time to explore the amazing rocks high above camp before sunset. We saw some great cave drawings and views from above.



We enjoyed a great camp that night with Kristin sharing the last of her cocktail treats – an “Orgasm” for all! We had a campfire in the sand, relaxed in the spa, swam laps in our private pool and enjoyed a fantastic nights sleep minus the fly watching the stars.

The last walk out was not too far and we managed to enjoy a lazy lunch and swim en route. Once we descended Gunlom falls at the end we were all on such a high! Go the girls team!!

Simon has been calling me Wilma Smith for the last week as I’ve made these posts of our Kakadu National Park hiking adventure in referenced to how long and drawn out Wilbur Smiths writing is. While my photos can never capture the amazing surroundings, the spirit of camaraderie amongst us and the fun and sheer freedom we experienced – hopefully I’ve not bored you too much in wanting to share a taste of our trip.

The Long Walk continued...

Instead of following Barramundi Creek, Kristin’s google earth images suggested we might find an easier route if we cut over the top of the sandstone, crossed a tributary, rather than following it down to the lowlands and descending into Buff Pools down (hopefully) a gentle gully.

Despite being steep the first part of the day couldn’t have run smoother. We climbed the ridge behind camp, passed our sunset bar and headed uphill to a beautiful Alison Carpia forest for morning tea. We then ummed and ahhed a bit and trudged through a rain storm before finding the most spectacular lunch spot. A beautiful swimming hole, with an underwater entrance to a cavern in the rock dug out by a gorgeous massaging waterfall. Ahh bliss!



Luckily we found flat ground most of the afternoon, even a paddock of green grass and flowers to lay in. While breaking for afternoon tea we spied a cave in the distance. Curious, we all headed up hill and were amazed to find an aboriginal site – complete with a mortar and pestle at the entrance in a big old stone. On the rock ledge we saw worked spear tips and tools, with some rock art adorning the walls.

After descending our last slope of the day we arrived at Buff Pools, our Camp for Day 3. We were all relieved to remove our wet clothes and boots and relax out by the waterfall. Mum even braved swimming out to the falls on her own – twice!

This was a lovely camp and I only wish we had more time to explore the creek upstream of the falls. But given tomorrow we needed to cross over to the Gunlom valley – via a damn steep ridge we had better preserve our energy.

Early the next morning despite donning wet gear and another shower overnight, the girls team were in good spirits and looking forward to the big day ahead.

The day did not let us down… it was hard! At times I’m sure we were only running on adrenalin as Kristin and I took turns climbing the creek bed to what we hoped would be the top of the ridge, doubling back to take mums pack and help her ascend. It was rocky and steep and took all morning to get there, with a thunder storm hitting us on the way!

It was like being on top of the world with the only concern being how to get down? While contemplating our options, we enjoyed lunch and a quick dip in a spring at the top. We were unsure if we’d get cliffed out, but as luck was on our side we found a steep hill and zig zagged down… very slowly.

I’ll sign off en route to Camp Day 4.

Southern Visitors

It had been over a year since I’d seen my parents and I couldn’t wait for them to arrive. I’d managed to wangle a few days off work and had an action packed week planned for them. We started on the evening they arrived with a movie on the lawn at the Darwin waterfront.

We hit the road bright and early, planning to explore Kakadu from the north to the south. The first day we started with Ubirr, which included a river crossing in the 4WD. It was a first for me and all the talk about bow waves was getting me nervous. I turned to my mum, “are you nervous”? She flippantly replied, “about what?” Oh well, if no one is worried maybe my concerns about getting stranded or washed down a croc-infested river are unfounded…




With the crossing safely behind I us, I kept a keen eye on the rain clouds in the distance as we explored Ubirr rock art and the scenic views across the wetlands. The artwork was amazing although it was a change being behind barricades with interpretive signs after the Kimberly’s. At least still being the wet season we had the place to the views, the peace and quiet and ourselves was amazing.

The next morning we headed to Gunlom for a hike to some freshwater falls. It was a top walk and well worth the effort in the heat. Luckily we had mum and dad to test for crocs before we braved the water!

The heat was almost unbearable, but we pushed on explored every trail, hill, lookout and art site around Gunlom and Nourlangie. By the end of the day we were all exhausted! Can we keep up the pace tomorrow?

After some discussion we decided we were all still keen and wanted to embark on the long drive south to Yurmikmik, followed by a 10km hike before driving back to Darwin. I was hoping being so far out of the way this was going to be the highlight of our trip and I was not disappointed. The walk was beautiful and scenic and once we reached motorcar falls the waterfall was in full flow with a beautiful clear pool at the bottom to cool our weary bodies. Here’s a little clip of our day.





Exhausted we limped back to Darwin. Mum and dad spent a few days cruising around town while I returned to work in an effort to appear dedicated. The following Friday, with another day off work scheduled we headed south to explore Litchfield this time. After the seclusion and isolation of Yurmikmik we had been spoiled and now found Litchfield a bit too pre-prepared.


Unfortunately dad had got too far into the spirit of the falls and had a fall himself on some slippery rocks. While he recovered I towed mum under Florence in a pool toy. Last I heard before she disappeared under the pounding water was something that sounded like, “I’ve just washed my haaaiiiirrrr!!!!” Eventually she popped out the side looking a little like a drowned rat with a huge grin on her face.

All too soon it was time to say Farewell. It was clear the bush-walking bug had bitten them both so I was trying to convince mum to come with me on the big Jatbula hike I was planning later in the year. She left keen but non-committal – watch this space.

Bigge Island – late September

Keeping on the outside islands we headed south west of Montague sound stopping at Bigge Island. Someone had mentioned there was great aboriginal rock art and some skulls in a cave – this was attracted Simon’s attention and despite a NW seabreeze blowing we stopped for a look. It was a gorgeous spot, crystal clear water, a small white sand cove surrounded by sculptured rocks leading up one side of the bay were small caves where we found the rock art.

We found the skull cave – very eerie. Si's hounding me to post photos of it but I'm not sure it would be right...

Mitchell River – Seabird Creek – Mid September

With Spring tides approaching we made our way back downstream to visit Seabird Creek for a spot of fishing and exploring before leaving the mud banks and mangroves of the Mitchell. Now a little more savvy on the rock bars we secured the dinghy and headed up the creek in search of freshwater. I searched for miles for a clean pool as I was dying to wash my hair and we were nearly out of water not being able to run the desal in the river. The walk was worthwhile as the scenery and wildlife was amazing. Rock gullies, freshwater pools, kangaroos, birds, lizards and an endless horizon of bush and rock. Si wouldn’t brave the water city slicker he’s become, but it was clean cool and refreshing and even my clothes managed to get a wash!


On the way back Simon was wondering if there would be any aboriginal rock art around and started looking under some rocks. I laughed thinking, as if! He hesitated and called me back saying I think there’s something here. True enough there was some art and some shell midden. It’s true – the Kimberlies is the last frontier and the possibilities for discovery are endless!

We were both sad to leave the Mitchell River as we had enjoyed taking the time out to really explore. Saying this we were much looking forward to a sea breeze, the endless blue horizon and some outer island exploring.

Jar Island Bradshaws – Beginning of September

We explored the shoreline only a short while before we found signs of a trail – surely this will lead us to the artwork? A few wrong turns later we stumbled across a cave filled with art. It was awesome!!! It was really amazing to be standing in front of this ancient artwork, probably in the caves that housed families and overlooked the same untouched scenery we were now seeing. Here is a sample of some of the art work, which is really well preserved.



This was a highlight of the trip so far for me. I love this style of artwork that is so feminine and the scenes look like those of celebration and dancing.

The anchorage not being so great in the afternoon westerlies we carefully picked our way back out of the bay and into charted waters again heading for Freshwater Bay. It’s been voted by cruisers as the best bay in the Kimberlies – wonder what all the fuss is about?

Flinders Island Group

Everyone was buzzing about the Aboriginal drawings at Flinders Island group so we decided to head there next with an overnight stop at Ingram Island. We entered Flinders through the Owen channel just as the wind seemed to drop off. We were able to enjoy the peace and silence of the area with the dramatic castle rock, pretty beaches and reef lined coves. Instantly this place had a good feel about it.

An early dinghy ride across the channel and a hike to the other side and Stanley Island and we arrived at the aboriginal drawings. They were by far the best we had ever seen and the information provided by the elders was really interesting. The guest book was not a big one and although it started in 2005 and we felt privileged to be there.

Despite our early start the heat was unbelievable and this is winter! The water was crystal clear and a swim was tempting but all advice is that crocs live here.

In place of a swim I found the next best thing. No one was around so I quickly stripped off and had a refreshingly cold shower under a tank provided at the camp site on Flinders Island.

First stop Pittwater

The trip to Pittwater was fairly uneventful apart from a little rain and a fish strike. Unfortunately we were travelling to fast for the haul in and whatever it was got away. Damn.
Our first stop was to travel up Cowan Creek to Refuge Bay where we picked up a mooring.

The next day we went for a shower under the waterfall and Amanda thought it would be a good idea to hike up to the top of a hill for the view. Personally I thought that fell into the category of bad ideas.

We did a little fishing in the evenings to feed ourselves and the cats with Whiting and a Flathead. The fish heads went into the crab pots and Blue Swimmer crabs were on the menu the following afternoon before moving around into Towelers Bay to meet up with friends with gifts of Blue Swimmer.

A few supplies were gathered from Newport and off to the Basin we went bumping into our old boat neighbours, Greg and Libby on yacht Resolution from 4-5 years ago. A nice afternoon was spent on aboard Resolution recounting their experiences cruising. The next morning, Amanda, not yet over the idea of hiking thought it would be a good idea to walk up a hill and after a lot of complaining I was forced to attend.

Our mission apparently was to take an easy walk 1.8kms to some Aboriginal Rock Carvings. Boring. Anyway 1.8kms turned into 5.2kms and easy turned into very steep. The scenery was a little burnt however the exercise was probably needed retrospectively.

After hanging around for a few more days waiting for the right weather, we caught up with Stuart for dinner one evening and hit the high seas for Lake Macquarie 8 hours up the coast early the next morning.

Over and out.